What’s Really in Your Skincare? A Guide to Choosing Natural and Organic Beauty Products
What’s Really in Your Skincare? A Guide to Choosing Natural and Organic Beauty Products
The world of skincare can be confusing. We’re surrounded by claims such as natural, organic, clean, non-toxic and free from, and now a host of ingredient checking apps that can make it seem as though we need a chemistry degree just to choose a face cream.
At Amaranth, we’ve always believed in taking a more considered approach. We love natural and organic skincare and carefully select brands that use high-quality botanical ingredients and thoughtful formulations. But we also believe that choosing skincare shouldn’t be about being frightened of ingredients or assuming that everything natural is good and everything synthetic is bad.
So, what should you really look for when choosing skincare?
What does ‘natural’ skincare actually mean?
One of the difficulties with skincare marketing is that terms such as natural and organic may not always mean what consumers expect them to mean. A product can feature botanical imagery, words associated with nature and a small number of plant extracts without necessarily meeting an independent natural or organic skincare standard.
This is sometimes referred to as ‘greenwashing’, when the marketing or presentation of a product gives it stronger environmental or natural credentials than the complete picture might suggest. This doesn’t necessarily mean the product is poor quality or unsafe. It simply means it’s worth looking beyond the front of the packaging.
Independent certifications such as COSMOS, Soil Association COSMOS Organic, NATRUE and COSMOS certification through organisations such as Ecocert can be useful if choosing certified natural or organic skincare is important to you. Each of these has their own criteria, which you may choose to understand further but overall, they are an assurance that the products you are buying are natural and free from synthetic ingredients.
Does natural mean safer?
Not necessarily. An ingredient being natural doesn’t automatically make it safe or suitable for everyone, just as an ingredient being synthetic doesn’t automatically make it harmful. Essential oils, for example, are natural but can irritate or sensitise some skin types. Conversely, many laboratory-produced ingredients have excellent safety records and can be extremely useful in skincare.
What matters is the ingredient, concentration, formulation, how the product is used and your individual skin. This is one reason we don’t believe skincare should simply be divided into lists of ‘good’ and ‘bad’ ingredients.
What about skincare ingredient apps?
Ingredient-checking apps have become incredibly popular and can be a useful starting point for learning about what is in your products. However, they also have limitations.
An app may flag an individual ingredient without considering its concentration, how it interacts with the rest of the formulation or the way the finished product is intended to be used. Cosmetic safety is based on risk as well as hazard. A substance may have the potential to cause an unwanted effect at a particular dose or under certain circumstances, but that doesn’t automatically mean the amount used in a properly formulated cosmetic presents the same risk.
In the UK, cosmetic products and their ingredients are subject to safety requirements and restrictions before they can legally be sold. Rather than using an app to tell you whether a product is simply ‘good’ or ‘bad’, we prefer to use ingredient information as one part of a much bigger decision-making process.
Skincare Ingredients to Look Out For
Rather than having a universal ‘avoid list’, we want to help you to understand more about particular ingredients so that can understand why they are used and why or why not they are appropriate for you.
We also want to explain our position and whether we choose to include the ingredients in the ranges we have on our shelves here at Amaranth. We consider three things in particular when selecting our skin care range : ingredient safety, potential for skin sensitivity and environmental impact.
1. Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES)
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) is an effective cleansing and foaming surfactant. However, it can remove oils from the surface of the skin and can cause irritation, particularly at higher concentrations or with repeated exposure. For people with dry, sensitive, eczema-prone or compromised skin, SLS-containing products may contribute to dryness, tightness, stinging or irritation.
Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) is related to SLS but has been modified through a process called ethoxylation. Its larger molecular structure generally makes it a milder surfactant and it tends to be less irritating than SLS. Many people tolerate SLES, particularly in rinse-off formulations, although very sensitive or compromised skin may benefit from gentler alternatives.
There are environmental considerations with SLS and SLES. Surfactants ultimately enter wastewater systems, so biodegradability, aquatic toxicity, manufacturing processes and the sustainability of their raw materials are all relevant considerations. SLS and SLES may also be produced from plant-derived fatty alcohols, including palm sources, making responsible, sustainable sourcing important.
Our View
We prefer gentle, sulphate-free cleansing systems and therefore choose skincare, body care and haircare ranges without SLS or SLES. Our brands use plant alternatives such as cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoyl isethionate, usually from coconut oil. Green People, Dr Hauschka, INIKA and SKIN-RG have natural or organic certifications so that you can be sure that they are ethically sourced.
These cleansing systems are generally considered mild surfactants and so are much less likely to cause irritation. The products achieve effective cleansing without unnecessarily stripping the skin or scalp.
2. Parabens
Parabens are a family of preservatives used in skincare, cosmetics and other personal-care products. You may see permitted parabens listed on an ingredients label as methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben or butylparaben.
Preservatives play an essential role in water-containing skincare by preventing the growth of potentially harmful bacteria, mould and other microorganisms and helping products remain safe throughout their intended shelf life.
Parabens have been the subject of considerable debate, particularly because of their potential interaction with the hormone system. Some parabens can interact with oestrogen receptors, which is why concerns have been raised about potential endocrine-disrupting effects. It appears however, that their oestrogenic activity is considerably weaker than the body’s own oestrogen, and current evidence has not established that permitted parabens at regulated cosmetic concentrations cause hormonal problems.
Research continues into possible associations between paraben exposure and reproductive, metabolic and other health outcomes. Parabens have been detected in human tissues, including breast tissue, but their presence alone does not demonstrate that they cause breast cancer. There are also environmental considerations. Parabens and their metabolites have been detected in aquatic environments, and researchers continue to investigate their environmental fate and effects.
Importantly, not all parabens are treated equally by regulators. Some are permitted in UK cosmetics within specified concentration limits, while others are prohibited.
Our View
All water-containing skincare requires an effective preservation system to ensure that it remains safe to use.
Current evidence does not confirm that permitted parabens used within regulated cosmetic limits cause hormonal problems or cancer. However, given the ongoing questions surrounding endocrine activity and environmental exposure, we choose to take a precautionary approach. Our skincare ranges are paraben-free and use alternative preservation systems. We select established brands with robust formulation and safety-testing procedures to ensure safe and effective preservation of the products.
3. Methylisothiazolinone (MI)
Methylisothiazolinone (MI) is another preservative. Its use increased significantly during the 2000s, including in products marketed as alternatives to paraben-preserved formulations. However, MI subsequently became associated with a significant rise in allergic contact dermatitis and is now recognised as a potent contact allergen. As a result, its use in cosmetics has been significantly restricted. MI is not permitted in leave-on cosmetic products in the UK and can only be used at very low concentrations in rinse-off products.
Despite these restrictions, MI, sometimes alongside the related preservative methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI), can still be found in some widely available shampoos and other rinse-off personal-care products.
Our View
We choose skincare, haircare and personal-care ranges without MI or MCI because of their recognised potential to cause allergic contact dermatitis. For customers with eczema, sensitive skin or a history of reactions to cosmetics, these are particularly useful ingredient names to recognise.
4. Fragrance and Essential Oils
Fragrance is one of the more complicated areas of cosmetic formulation. The term parfum or fragrance on an ingredients list can represent a mixture of ingredients to give the product the luxurious smells that we all love. These may be synthetic, naturally derived or a combination of both. Essential oils, meanwhile, are concentrated extracts obtained from plants.
Fragrance, parfum and essential oils can all make skincare enjoyable to use, and essential oils may have additional properties depending on the plant and formulation. However, both natural and synthetic fragrance ingredients can cause irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in susceptible people.
Essential oils contain numerous naturally occurring chemical compounds. Some fragrance allergens you may recognise from cosmetic labels include limonene, linalool, geraniol and citral. This doesn’t mean everyone needs to avoid these ingredients. Many people use fragranced and essential-oil-containing products without any problems. But fragrance is an important consideration for people with particularly sensitive, reactive or allergy-prone skin.
Some botanical extracts and essential oils, including chamomile, lavender and rose, are traditionally used in formulations designed to soothe or support the skin. Whether they are suitable for an individual still depends on the concentration, complete formulation and that person’s sensitivities.
Our View
We choose not to stock skincare containing purely synthetic fragrance/parfum formulations where fragrance is added simply to perfume the product.
Many of our natural skincare products do however, contain carefully selected essential oils and naturally derived aromatic ingredients, as part of the overall botanical formulation.
If you have highly reactive skin or a known allergy to a particular fragrance component then fragrance free ranges may be most suitable for you. Alternatively, we can help you to identify suitable products. Contact us to book a free appointment.
5. Alcohol
Seeing the word ‘alcohol’ on a skincare label can be alarming, but not all cosmetic alcohols behave in the same way. Alcohol used in cosmetics can be classed as natural as it is produced through fermentation of plant-derived sugars or other biological material, but there are different types which will influence whether it is suitable for your skin.
Fatty alcohols
Fatty alcohols are waxy substances that generally have a very different effect on skin from ethanol. Common examples include: Cetyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol. These are widely used as emollients, thickeners and emulsifiers and can help make a formulation feel soft and moisturising. They are generally well tolerated, including by many people with sensitive skin.
Volatile, short-chain alcohols
Ingredients such as Alcohol Denat., Ethanol/Ethyl Alcohol and Isopropyl Alcohol behave differently. They evaporate quickly and can be useful as solvents, to improve the sensory feel of a product or help deliver other ingredients.
At higher concentrations, these volatile, short chain alcohols can potentially be drying or irritating, particularly for dry, sensitive, eczema-prone or compromised skin.
Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl alcohol is different again. It may be used as a preservative, solvent or fragrance component. It is permitted for use in cosmetics and is generally well tolerated at appropriate concentrations, but it is also a recognised fragrance allergen and may therefore be relevant for people with known sensitivities.
Our View
We don’t believe that all ingredients containing the word ‘alcohol’ should be avoided. We are happy to recommend products containing skin-friendly fatty alcohols such as cetyl and cetearyl alcohol. When it comes to volatile alcohols, we consider their concentration, purpose and the complete formulation, particularly when selecting products for dry or sensitive skin.
6. Mineral Oils
Mineral oil, commonly listed as Paraffinum Liquidum, and related ingredients such as petrolatum are highly refined petroleum-derived substances.
They are effective occlusives and emollients, helping to soften the skin and reduce water loss. Cosmetic-grade mineral oil and petrolatum are considered safe when used in accordance with cosmetic regulations and are generally very well tolerated, including by sensitive and compromised skin.
This is an important example of why we don’t believe in labelling ingredients as simply ‘good’ or ‘bad’.
Our reasons for preferring alternatives are primarily about ingredient origin, sustainability and our natural skincare philosophy, rather than evidence that cosmetic-grade mineral oil is unsafe.
Plant oils can also offer a different composition, providing fatty acids and naturally occurring plant compounds alongside their emollient properties.
Our View
We choose natural and organic skincare formulated with plant-derived oils and waxes rather than petroleum-derived mineral oils. You’ll commonly find ingredients such as jojoba, sunflower, almond, avocado and other botanical oils in the ranges we stock.
This isn’t because we consider cosmetic-grade mineral oil dangerous. It’s because renewable botanical ingredients better reflect our approach to natural skincare and, when thoughtfully formulated, offer additional plant-derived components that we value.
Why Formulation Matters
A skincare product is much more than its individual ingredients. The concentration of ingredients, their stability, pH, preservation system, packaging and the way ingredients work together all influence the safety, quality, sustainability and effectiveness of the finished product. At Amaranth, we look at the whole formulation rather than relying on a simple checklist.
Why We Still Choose Natural and Organic Skincare
If natural doesn’t automatically mean safer, you might wonder why we place such an emphasis on natural and organic beauty at Amaranth.
Quite simply, it reflects our philosophy and the type of products we want to use and recommend. We seek out brands that combine high-quality botanical ingredients with thoughtful formulation, transparency and a strong approach to sustainability.
Where possible, we look for recognised natural or organic certification and brands that are transparent about how their ingredients are sourced, manufactured and formulated.
We consider potential skin sensitivity and favour gentle formulations, particularly because so many of our customers come to us with dry, reactive or changing skin.
Environmental impact matters too. We consider the origin and sustainability of ingredients, packaging and the wider environmental philosophy of the brands we work with.
And, of course, the products still need to work. We consider how they feel on the skin, who they’re suitable for and whether they genuinely add something to our customers’ skincare routines.
For us, natural beauty is about choosing excellent botanical formulations because of what they offer, while making informed decisions about the ingredients we’d prefer to avoid.
How We Choose Skincare Brands at Amaranth
Before bringing a skincare range into Amaranth, we consider:
- Ingredient quality and transparency
- The complete formulation rather than individual ingredients in isolation
- Potential for skin irritation and sensitivity
- Natural and organic certification where appropriate
- Ingredient sourcing and sustainability
- Environmental and packaging considerations
- Suitability for different skin types
- Brand expertise and formulation philosophy
- Safety and quality testing
- How the products actually perform and feel on the skin
We work with brands including Dr Hauschka, Green People, Weleda, INIKA SKIN-RG and other carefully selected natural skincare specialists because their approaches align with the type of skincare we want to offer our customers.
How to Choose the Right Skincare for You
Rather than starting with a long list of ingredients to avoid, start with your skin.
Is it dry, oily, sensitive or easily irritated? Are you experiencing redness, breakouts or changes associated with hormones or ageing? Are you using too many active ingredients? Could your skin barrier benefit from a simpler routine? Your skincare should then be chosen around those individual needs.
And remember that skin health isn’t only about what you put on your skin. Nutrition, hormones, lifestyle and overall health can all influence how our skin looks and feels.
At Amaranth, our skincare specialists and nutritional therapists work together to take an inside-and-out approach to healthy skin. If you’re unsure where to start, come and talk to us in store or contact us to book a free skin health consultation. We can help you review your current routine, understand ingredient labels and choose skincare and nutritional support appropriate for you.